DRESSER TD7E OPERATOR Maintenance Manual International IH crawler dozer - $35.00. You are bidding on an International Harvester (IH)/Dresser TD7E.

• Td7e Dresser Dozer Manual

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This seems to be the place for a vast amount of info on equipment repair. I am new to the forum this is my first post. I have bought a 1979 td7e dozer that needs transmission rebuilt. I have the trans out and tore down but was wondering where the best place to get sealing rings, seals. Clutch plates and snap rings.

I would also like to know what the thickness of new clutch plates to compare with mine. I live in north east tx.

And dealers in this area don't have anything on dresser equipment. Any advice would be appreciated. Try your Komatsu dealer if you haven't already, that is where the IH / Dresser machines ended up. Another would be FP Smith in Calif. Not sure if there was ever a wear spec for the clutch plates.

What was wrong with the transmission and what did you find? Dennis thanks Dennis i will try to find one in the surrounding area. Possibly might be one in Dallas.

The dozer would not pull it's self forward or reverse in any range. It would only tighten the tracks and move maybe a couple inches. Pressure checked ok at regulator and at direction clutch ports. Jeep l4 engine. Was a little low at 1st range port. Inside trans is very clean. Plates look good to me no blue spots or streaks on steel plates like i thought i would find.

Td7e Dresser Dozer Manual

O-rings on o.d. Of separator plates and pistons are hard as a rock and have shrunk below the groove' steel rings look ok and still have a little drag to them.

Teflon rings look ok too but will replace all sealing rings. Clutch plates mic at.060 fiber and steel. Would be good to know what new plates mic out to be. Service manual says 'Inspect the inner and outer compression springs for damage or fatigue. If they do not fall within the specification given in Section 1, they must be replaced. If a clutch pack was subject to slippage, replace all the clutch plates regardless of their appearance.' Clutch pack compression springs: Free Length Inches Test Length inches Test Load pounds Number of coils Inner.313.188 2 7 outer.250.188 11-13 4 the springs seem to be ok on length but I have no way to check pressure on that small spring.

My valve spring tester has a 1000lbs. Just can't see replacing all the plates when they show no signs of slippage.

Thats a bummer, its always kinda relieving/ annoying when you open something up and right away spot something obviously not right. Its annoying because you have broken stuff to fix but relieving because at least you know why it wasn't working right. When you can't see anything obvious, well thats when i start to worry. Yes would much rather find something obvious. With trans all in pieces now it's kind of a guessing game. My luck it was probably a pump or suction leak but pressures checked in spec.

Any history on symptoms leading up to the failure??? Gradually worse?? All at once etc The person I bought it from said he changed trans oil and filter and it started acting up soon after. He said it first would quit pulling but he could put in in and out of gear several times and it would start pulling again. When he would shut it down it might or might not work when restarted. I went to look at it a few times before I bought it but I never got it to pull it' self.

I'll try to take some pictures if I can figure out how to get them on here. According to the book I got it has the correct number of plates. I believe the separator o-ring was leaking bad enough to let apply pressure leak to the back side because the ring is very hard and shrunk below the ring groove.

Before I took the direction shaft apart I applied shop air to the oil passages in the shaft to apply the packs. When air was applied the piston would move toward the clutch pack, but by the time it barely touched the clutches the other half of the piston would move toward it's pack thus pulling the first one away. It would then be fully pressurized and pretty much centered between the packs and not touching either one. I know in actual operation with oil the oil would seal better than air. This reply is to Dennis, I guess I put it in wrong place. I think you might be right in your assumption of some sort of suction leak, these transmissions will behave weird with a mix of air and oil pumping through them, sometimes they will still make decent pressure ( I assume it is partially 'air pressure') Was there any sign of aerated fluid before you tore it down???

Sounds a little suspicious after the recent filter change etc. When I first got it here it had a lot of pump cavitation and frothy oil, but the oil level was real low. Filled it up with oil and no more aerated oil, but it would still vibrate the hose from pump to pressure filter entermittanley like it was getting a gulp of air every so often.

Checked connections and didn't find anyplace that seemed to be leaking.